Ashley Graham Shines at CFDA Awards in Custom ESQUE/By Suit
For over ten years, Ashley Graham has continuously challenged conventional beauty boundaries within the high-fashion industry. From historic appearances on the covers of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit and Vogue to her relentless advocacy for size inclusivity, the mother of three remains a constant fixture on major red carpets. At the recent CFDA Awards hosted inside New York’s esteemed Natural History Museum, Graham utilized her immense platform to spotlight a rising independent design label, stepping out in a bespoke creation crafted by ESQUE/By.
The Creative Collaboration Behind the Bespoke Ensemble
The partnership was rooted in a mutual dedication to impeccable fit and construction. "I love a strong tailored look, and I was drawn to the way JJ approaches it. She starts with the woman who’s going to wear the clothes, and you can feel that in the finished piece," Graham noted via email. Spearheaded by former engineer-turned-designer JJ Lee, the New York-based brand channeled iconic 1990s tailoring and classic menswear silhouettes to deliver an aesthetic that felt both deeply feminine and authentically aligned with Graham’s personal style.
Working alongside stylist Emily Evans, the ESQUE/By atelier set out to modernize traditional menswear for an upscale evening environment. The design featured a cropped top modeled after a crisp men’s white poplin shirt, constructed from structured white silk grosgrain and fastened with a jeweled dome button. This was complemented by the label's signature oversized blazer and waist-cinching trousers that followed Graham's natural figure. Crafted from 100% Japanese drape wool, the outfit successfully maintained architectural precision while offering fluid movement.
Evans drew direct inspiration from the legendary supermodels of decades past. "Growing up watching the iconic 90’s supermodels and the cool simplicity of those times inspired my work today," Evans explained. "The quirky twist of the man’s dress shirt cuff as Ashley’s corset made the perfect blend of sharpness and fun." The resulting ensemble quickly became one of the most talked-about statements of the evening.
Prioritizing Comfort, Fit, and Precision Tailoring
For Graham, red carpet fittings transcend visual appeal, serving as a practical test of wearability and comfort. "For me, a fitting is as much about how I move in the clothes as how they look in the mirror. With this look, it was all about proportion," she stated. Balancing the rigid structure of the white silk with effortless wearability was essential to achieving her vision.
Executing the design under a tight schedule required extensive collaboration within New York's historic Garment District. Lee and her team of patternmakers and tailors worked meticulously on the trouser proportions. "Ultimately, fit is personal," Lee remarked. The label aims to empower women to construct capsule wardrobes centered around garments engineered specifically for their unique measurements.
Championing Independent New York Talent on Fashion's Biggest Stage
As the premier gathering on the domestic fashion calendar, the CFDA Awards are decided by an exclusive guild of industry leaders, editors, and stylists, making it an ideal venue for independent creators to shine. For ESQUE/By, the high-profile moment provided an invaluable platform to highlight local craftsmanship just as the brand prepares to debut an upcoming ready-to-wear line.
Concluding her thoughts on the collaboration, Graham emphasized the importance of supporting local artisans. "There’s so much talent in New York, and wearing a piece made in the Garment District is a chance to give some of that work the attention it deserves. I hope it reminds women how good it feels to put something on that was made with your body in mind.